SpeedDirect manufacturers & sells Steeroids™ brand rack and pinion conversions, along with other products that bring modern precision and control to your classic.
For a list of authorized installers click here.
OTHER KITS: When comparing our kit to others that may be on the market, we feel that our experience with manufacturing steering conversion kits helps us offer the best kit available. Our engineers have had years of fine tuning bump steer issues, header clearance issues, ease of install issues and geometry issues. We offer a COMPLETE kit - Everything you need to completely replace the old steering with the new Steeroids and get you on the road, without any hidden parts that you will need to find on your own. Also, you do not need to make ANY modifications to your vehicle to make fit. When we say Bolt-On, we mean it! If you would like to know more about our kit(s) and our history of manufacturing them, please feel free to call us toll free at 888-731-1381!
* PLAY IN THE WHEEL: This is often caused by a worn bearing at the end of the steering column. It is not usually noticed with the original steering box, but with the Steeroids system it makes a big difference with regards to steering wheel "play". The bearing doesn't cost very much and only takes about 5 minutes to replace. They can be found on Eckler's website here. Thanks to Bjorn Leidelof from Sweden for the suggestion!
* FLUID: Please do not run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break-in period is over, usually around 1000 miles.
* ENGINE CONVERSIONS: We know that there was no problem with a 71 Corvette with an LS1, however, he had custom headers...Also, it may require some modification to the oil pan if you are running a long sump. No problems with an LS6 with the stock manifolds.
* GM SERPENTINE SYSTEMS: If you are using a GM Serpentine System, we recommend ordering the kit for the Big Block. We have had customers tell us that our hoses for the Big Block kit hook directly up without any modification.
* OIL PAN CLEARANCE: Most oversized oil pans fit as long as the stock steering fits. We are running 7 qt Milodons on our development vehicles. The factory 327/365 SHP motor which has the larger 6 quart oil pan does not fit with the stock steering, and does not fit with our kit either. The following are some measurements off of our 78 small block (with a 7 qt Milodon) that may help:
Back of sump to front of sump: 9"
Back of sump to rack: 12"
Clearance
at the top of the rack: 1/2"
From the front of the pan
back, you need about 7" clearance.
* LS ENGINES: Many customers are changing to LS engines. There seems to be only minor modifications necessary. The main clearance issue is with the oil pan, however, if you use a Firebird oil pan, it seems to work just fine. We have not heard anything about headers, but stock manifolds should work. You may be able to check our header clearance page for measurements.
The following is a list of headers that our customers have told us have or have not worked for them. Our systems are not limited to these headers by any means, but you can use them as a routing style reference for your own headers. It is the routing style that is important, not the name brand. You can look these up to see if yours have similar routing styles.
Small Block:
- Black Jack - No Problem
- Flotech 11106FLT or 31106 FLT - Dimple Required in Drivers Side
- Hedman long tube with a 4-2-1 collector SB - major dimple required
- Hedman side pipes - Dimple Required
- Hooker 2456HKR or 2456-1HKR - No Problem
- Hooker 2134HKR or 2134-1HKR Super Comps - No Problem
- Hooker 2224, 2224-1 or 2234 Side Pipes- Dimple Required in Drivers Side
- Thorley Headers with L82 - No Problem
- Walker Dynomax - No Problem
Big Block:
- Stahl 2 1/8" fits - Fit with dimpling
- Stock Manifold - 454 No Problem
- Stainless Works - 2" Flange, 3" Collector No Problem
- Hedman 2" - Needs Dimple
- Hooker Side Pipes - No Problem
- Hooker Longboy's need modification
- Hooker Supercomps - No Problem (even with a 572 ci tall deck!)
If you currently have Steeroids and see any conflicts, or if you have any additions to this list, please email tech support so that we can update this page.
* OTHER KITS: When comparing our kit to others that may be on the market, we feel that our experience with manufacturing steering conversion kits helps us offer the best kit available. Our engineers have had years of fine tuning bump steer issues, header clearance issues, ease of install issues and geometry issues. We offer a COMPLETE kit - Everything you need to completely replace the old steering with the new Steeroids and get you on the road, without any hidden parts that you will need to find on your own or modify to make fit. Some other companies do not include pricey U-joint steering shafts or do not work with big blocks. Another consideration is weight. One company's kit'S ship wieght is approx. 50 lbs. The Steeroids ship weight is 32 lbs. - significantly lighter than the stock setup. Read more here!
* OLDSMOBILE ENGINES: In the past, people have asked about the clearance issues using Oldsmobile engines. One customer with a 67 Camaro told us that the 455 Olds will fit, however they had to push in the oil pan about an inch and they had to make longer power steering hoses.
* FLUID: Please do not run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break-in period is over, usually around 1000 miles.
* OIL PAN CLEARANCE / LS1 CONVERSIONS: Most oversized oil pans fit. We are running 7 qt Milodons on our development vehicles. Generally, the edge of the rack sits about 3.5" back from the cross member. Pans with a deep sump in the rear could be a problem (for example truck pans.) A Moroso 20403 does not fit with a 402 Big Block.
Regarding the LS conversions, the only issue that we know of is with the oil pan - some slight modification may be necessary. We have customers that use the S&P oil pan without any problems. You can also use our header template to check clearances. You can see a little more by going to one of our customer's links and seeing how he addressed the oil pan clearancing: LS1 On Customer's Camaro.
The following is a list of headers that our customers have told us have worked for them. Our systems are not limited to these headers by any means, but you can use them as a routing style reference for your own headers. It is the routing style that is important, not the name brand. You can look these up to see if yours have similar routing styles. We are currently trying to find someone out there who has angle plug heads and headers that will fit, so please let us know if you have some!
Small Block:
- Dynomax Shortie – Customer had clearance issue with a custom steering column...?
- Dynomax 289-86001 - No Problem
- Flo-Tech #92451 (Full Length) - No Problem
- Heddman #68270 (Full Length) - No Problem
- Hedman #65020, 65003 – DOES NOT FIT
- Hooker Supercomp – DOES NOT FIT
- Hooker #2451-1 (Full Length) - No Problem
- Patriot Clipster mid-length headers - No Problem
- Sanderson CC1 (Center Dump) – DOES NOT FIT
- Stahl - DO NOT FIT W/ 427 SB (Road race version may fit, but have not tried...)
- Stainless Works - DO NOT FIT W/ 427 SB
- Stan's Headers #175Y (Tri-Y) - No Problem
Big Block:
- Heddman routing style works best. #68190 (1 3/4" tube w/ 3" collector) - No Problem
- Hooker Super Comp – DOES NOT FIT
- Hooker Compettion 2" #2457-1HKR – DOES NOT FIT WITHOUT DIMPLE
- Hooker (?) 2 1/8” fit with dimple
- Lemons Headers (see links page!) - Up to 2 1/2" primaries, no problem! Many sizes available. (Includes tall deck & raised port heads)
- Patriot Mid Length Headers - DO NOT FIT
- Sanderson – DOES NOT FIT
If you currently have Steeroids and see any conflicts, or if you have any additions to this list, please email tech1@speeddirect.com so that we can update this page.
FLUID: Please do not run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break-in period is over, usually around 1000 miles.
* OIL PAN & HEADER CLEARANCE: Since this kit is a front steer system, that is the rack & pinion is in front of the spindle, interference with headers or oil pans has been eliminated.
*CHASSIS MODIFICATIONS: You do not need to make ANY modifications to your vehicle to make or system fit. When we say Bolt-On, we mean it! If at any time you decide to return you vehicle to stock condition you may do so by just unbolting the kit and replacing it with your stock steering.
If you would like to know more about our kit(s) and the development & manufacturing them, please feel free to call us toll free at 888-731-1381!
You have heard what the competition says about themselves. Now take a look at what our customers have to say about us in the Customer Testimonies Section! Or, read more about the difference between our kits vs. others on the market here!
* OTHER APPLICATIONS: We are getting a lot of people wondering what other applications this kit will fit on. So far, we have not tested this kit on any Ford applications other than the Mustang years specified. As we test (and learn from our customers) other applications, we will start compiling a list and details on our website in this tech section. At this point, however, we are only offering it for Mustangs. If you wish to try the kit on a different application, you will be responsible to determine if the kit will fit before you install it as we cannot give a refund for a kit after it has been installed. THIS KIT WAS DEVELOPED ON A MUSTANG. To date, many customers have installed our kit on Rancheros and Cougars with success (sometimes there are minimal clearance issues). Until we have had the opportunity to test for ourselves, try other applications at your own risk!
* COMPARE TO OTHER KITS:
Steeroids has a quicker ratio, 2.5 turns compared to 3
Steeroids does not
remove critical structural components - they require you to remove the cross
brace
Steeroids come with new, adjustable, teflon lined tie rod
ends
Steeroids has better bumpsteer curves
Steeroids costs much less
Steeroids offers a quicker ratio, 2.5 turns verses 4
Steeroids offers
power assist in addition to manual kits available
Steeroids fits with most
headers
Steeroids works with big blocks
Steeroids has better bumpsteer
curves
Steeroids has a tighter turning radius
Read
more here!
* FLUID: We recommend that you use GM power steering fluid (which will work with your Ford Pump) since most Ford power steering fluids have detergents in them that can be harmful to the seals. Please do not run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break-in period is over, usually around 1000 miles.
* STRAIGHT 6 - POWER KITS: Currently, if you have the straight 6 and are interested in the power kit, we do not have hoses available to run from the rack to the pump. We are working on them and plan to have them available soon. Most hydraulic shops can make you some hoses that will fit for a reasonable price, or we can recommend a company to have them made. We can also discount the price of a kit that does not include hoses.
* GRENADA SPINDLES: If you are using Grenada spindles for the disc brake conversion, please make note in the comment box on the online order form or notify your sales person so that we can send you the correct tie rod ends.
* TRANSMISSION / CLUTCH INFO: The kit was developed on an automatic. We are still working on fitment applications for the manual transmissions. At this time, the manual transmissions with the manual bell crank (Z-bar) will NOT work. The kit will work with most manual transmissions with a hydraulic clutch or a clutch cable set-up (The 94 and 95 T5 Tranny will not work with the Steeroids kit if you are using the clutch cable set up. 93 and earlier should work however.) Clutch cable kits are available from Modern Driveline. To make our kit work with a manual clutch linkage set up, you would need to move the Z-bar forward about 3/4".
* TURNING RADIUS:With our kit, the turning radius is slightly less than stock, but the difference is not significant like some other kits out there.
* POWER CONVERSIONS: We are finishing up a kit that includes a pump mounting bracket and fasteners. Check them out in our store by clicking here! Pumps and pulleys soon to follow!
* OIL PANS: Most oil pans work fine with our kits. We have heard that the cobra t-type aluminium oil pan for big block has clearance issues however.
* CRUSH NUTS: If your car was not originally equipped with power steering, you may need to install the threaded inserts into the bottom of the frame. Crush nut p/n 2774 (shown below) is available from Ford or from aftermarket parts catalogs. You will need two of them. They install with special crush nut installation tool or they can just be welded in place. Click this link to view / order them through Dallas Mustang.
The following is a list of exhaust
manifolds and headers that our customers have told us have (or have not) worked
for them. Our systems are not limited to these headers by any means, but you can
use them as a routing style reference for your own headers. It is the routing
style that is important, not the name brand. You can look these up to see if
yours have similar routing styles. Usually, we only hear back when a header does
NOT fit - most fitment issues are on the driver's side where the U-Joint
assembly connects the column to the rack. We have provided some measurements at
the links below to help determine if your headers will work with our kits.
***CHECK THIS OUT! If you are concerned about header clearance, this may be a
solution: Ron Morris Performance Adjustable Motor
Mounts! These have front to back and side to side adjustment! Small Block: - Dart Headers with a 351 - DO NOT FIT - Doug's Headers with a 351 - DO NOT FIT - FPA (Ford Powertrain) 9430331 Longtube with a 5.0 Conversion - DO NOT
FIT - Hedman full length headers with a 351W - Very slight dimple may be required
on #1 header on passenger side - Hedman #88300 (Full Length) - No Problem - 289, 302, 351W - Hedman Shorties w/ 302 - Dimple required driver's side - Hedman Tork Step 88304 - DO NOT FIT with a 351W - Hedman Tri-Ys (older version) - Dimple required on drivers side - HiPo Manifolds (67 Mustangs with the high performance (aka HiPo or K code)
289 engines) - DO NOT FIT - Hooker 6208 with a 351 - DO NOT FIT - Hooker Competition #6901 - DO NOT FIT, (but may clear with our new bracket
- we have not tested it yet) - Hooker Super Comp with a 351C - DO NOT FIT - Hooker Super Comp #61161195 with a 351W - DO NOT FIT - JBA 2 1/4" with 5.0 Conversion (Full Length) - No Problem - JBA Shorties with 302 - Most fit with no problem, but one customer had to
dimple the header - MAC (Full Length) - No Problem - Patriot Clipster Shorties on a 65 with a 5.0 - DO NOT FIT, but may clear
with new bracket - Stock Manifold - DOES NOT FIT WITH EITHER 351C or 351W, but see manifold
note below or Hedman note above: - Stock Manifold D00E-9431B - No Problem with 351W in a 69 (apparently the
manifold is off a 70 Fairlane) Big Block: - (1967) Tri-Y - No Problem - (67-68) FPA (Ford Powertrain) Tri-y - No Problem with FE cars - (1967-68) Ford Powertrain 390 (Lock or staggered bolt, cast iron Cobra Jet)
- DO NOT FIT - (1967) Stock High Performance Manifold - DOES NOT FIT - (67-68) JBA Short Style - Dimple Required
Our Racks: Steeroids rack and
pinion steering conversion kits utilize remanufactured rack and pinion units.
All of these racks are sand blasted and repainted, have new boots, seals and
internal parts and then bench tested to make sure everything is working like
new. Rack units do not have many wearable parts - and all parts that are
wearable are replaced with new parts so that you can be sure you will have a
rack that works.
We opted to go with refurbished rack and pinion units
for several reasons, but mainly because A) the cost is kept down to an
affordable amount. With new, custom racks the cost of the kit would increase
significantly, and B) by using remanufactured racks we know they are proven (GM
sold literally hundreds of thousands of them) so they are reliable and they will
have replacement parts available down the road should you need
them.
Turning Radius: With the Steeroids rack and pinion kits (except Chevelle), there is a slight increase in turning radius from the stock, but most of our customers have told us it is an insignificant amount. Navigating parking spots is not a problem with our kit. You can expect to gain about 7 feet when measuring the full diameter.
Running Power Kits Manually: The power racks that we use are
internally lubricated, so if you have a power rack and need to run it manually
for a short period of time, you can leave the plugs in the rack and run them
manually. The downfall with this is that when you are going slow or at a stop
(like in a parking lot), the steering resistance is increased, so you will have
to use a lot more effort to steer due to the quick ratio rack. Once the vehicle
was moving, it usually is about the same as the stock manual steering.
This
option is available for all of our kits. The Camaro, Firebird and Nova racks
yield about 2.75 turns lock to lock at the steering wheel, where the Mustang and
the Corvette racks yield 2.5 turns.
Issues to Consider: If you are thinking
about running a power kit manually, some factors will change the amount of
steering input required to turn the steering wheel - such as how wide your tires
are, do you have a small block or big block and has there been any front end
lightening done to the vehicle? These are just to name a few. We have many
customers with wide tires who are into auto crossing that prefer to run the kits
manually because they prefer plenty of road feel. All of these factors are of
course up to the individual's preferences.
People with power racks that are using them manually and
are using the vehicle often (daily driver) may want to consider adding
additional lubricating fluid every 5,000 miles or so to keep things smooth.
Also, you may want to consider making a hose that connects the pressure port to
the return port on the rack. The motion of the seals moving back and forth will
create a slight pressure inside the rack, so a bypass hose can eliminate some of
the pressure. Current manual racks have had the cylinder drilled to prevent
pressure build up.
FLUID: - Please do not run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break-in period is over, usually around 1000 miles .
When using other pumps with our racks the pump cannot have a max pressure exceeding 1250-1300 lbs .
The pump cannot have a max volume exceeding 2 gallons per minute UNLESS you have a system (such as Hydroboost braking systems) that includes an additional amount of fluid over the stock amount. Why? If you run just from the pump to the rack, then back to the pump, excessive heat is the enemy. Any more than 2 gallons per minute could damage the rack. Systems with additional fluid and routing allow the fluid to cool, allowing some pumps with higher outputs. Unfortunately, higher output pumps may result in slightly less resistance in the steering wheel. This, of course, is a matter of preference for the driver.
FLUID - Please do not run synthetic fluid through your rack unit until the break-in period is over, usually around 1000 miles.
If you are looking for more road feel (or greater resistance in the steering wheel), chances are your suspension is what needs to be adjusted - not your pump. Caster, camber and alignment have more to do with the steering wheel resistance than pump pressures for the most part. Please refer to the recommended settings below before adjusting your pump. If, after trying these settings, you still do not have enough resistance in the wheel, you can try a pressure reducing kit. Please call for more information on pressure reducing kits.
Toe (total) - 0 to 1/8" (increase from 0 for greater stability)
Camber - 0
to negative .25 degrees
Caster - 3 to 6 degrees positive (add as much
positive caster as possible)
The pumps that we offer have all new interior parts. The housing is a refurbished non-wearable part.
Diagnosing Power Steering Problems
When trying to determine
what is causing a problem in your power steering, keep this in mind. If the
problem occurs only in one direction, the problem is probably in the box or
rack. If the problem is in both directions, it is most likely the pump, dirty
fluid or hoses. Be sure there are no kinks or obstructions in your power
steering hoses.
Dirty Steering System
Before changing any single component
of the steering system, inspect the cleanliness of your system. Dirty or black
fluid can quickly ruin new steering components. If changing the box or rack, rub
your finger on the inside of the reservoir. If it isn't clean, you must flush
the pump and hoses with clean fluid before installing new components.
Bleeding Power Steering
All power steering systems are
designed to be self-bleeding, but sometimes they need a little help. After
installing new components, fill the reservoir and let it sit for a few minutes.
Raise the front end of the vehicle and turn the wheels back and forth slowly
with the engine off to allow the steering box to draw fluid. Keep the reservoir
full. When the fluid level stops dropping, start the vehicle and continue
turning the wheels. When the fluid level remains constant the system is fully
bled.
Put cardboard under the front tires while testing your steering system. The cardboard will slide on the floor and prevent wearing flat spots on the tire from excessive turning of the wheels while not moving.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All GM power steering pumps generate approximately 1,000 to 1,200 PSI of line pressure. This is compatible with GM steering boxes and GM rack and pinion units. If these pumps are used with a Mustang II rack and pinion, the steering will feel too sensitive on the highway. This can be corrected by adjusting the pump's flow control valve to generate the proper pressure for the Mustang rack.